Technical Information Bulletin |
Category: General |
The traditional Christmas flower has come a long way in the past twenty-five years. It wasn't long ago when the poinsettia had its place right next to the Christmas tree, along the curbside on January 1. Those early varieties were extremely fragile and short-lived, with a tendency to drop all their green foliage and red bracts just a few days after Christmas. But, thanks to extensive poinsettia research and breeding work, the poinsettia cultivars of today exhibit desirable characteristics such as stronger stems, larger bracts and better keeping qualities. The vigorous, long-lasting poinsettia cultivars of today are available in a wide range of beautiful colors. For increased enjoyment of your holiday poinsettias, follow these care tips:
The poinsettia thrives on bright, sunny natural daylight, at least six hours daily is recommended. Placement near a sunny window is ideal, however, be careful of locations where the hot afternoon sun may shine directly on colorful bracts. In this situation, it may be desirable to pull a light shade or sheer curtain to diffuse the light for an hour or so to avoid fading of the bright red bracts. To prolong the bright red of the bracts, temperatures ideally should not exceed 70°F/21°C during the day, or fall below 65°F/18°C at night. Be sure to avoid placing the plants near drafts, fluctuating air currents, excess heat and dry air from appliances, fireplaces or ventilating ducts.
Poinsettias do best with a moist soil condition - not too wet and not too dry. Water the poinsettia thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry to a light touch. The best indication of a thorough watering is when water begins to seep through the drain holes at the bottom of the inner pot. Water just enough so the water barely begins to seep through these holes. Be sure to discard any excess water, as poinsettias left sitting in water may suffer from permanent root-rot damage.
It is not necessary to fertilize your poinsettias when they are in bloom during the holiday season. However, a balanced, all-purpose household plant fertilizer, such as Schultz 10:5:10, certainly wouldn't hurt and could help maintain the rich, green foliage color and promote new growth after the holidays. Be sure to follow the directions on the fertilizer label.
Since poinsettias are sensitive to cold winds, chilling temperatures, frost and rain, outside placement during the winter months is not recommended. However, an enclosed patio or entryway may be suitable if the night temperatures are mild and the delicate bracts are well protected from wind, rain and temperatures below 55°F/13°C. Chilling damage will occur if poinsettias are exposed to temperatures below 50°F/10°C, causing the plants to drop their leaves quickly. Be aware that exposure to frost, even for a short time, will usually result in the death of a poinsettia plant.
Even if you don't have a gardener's green thumb, you may continue to enjoy the beauty of your poinsettia throughout the year as an attractive green foliage plant. At the end of March or early April, when the bracts age and turn to a muddy green, cut the stems back to about half their length to encourage new growth.
On or around July 4th, cut branches back again about half their length to encourage bushy plants. Some plants will need to have more cut than others to achieve a full, rounded canopy. After you cut the plant back, it will probably look rather stark, with bare branches and bluntly cut woody stems. This is not the plant's most attractive state, but by the end of May you will see vigorous new growth as the plant develops more lush green foliage. Keep the plants near a sunny window.
You may place your plants outdoors where they can bask in the warmth of spring and summer when outside night temperatures are warmer. Continue to water the plants regularly during the growing period. Fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks throughout the spring, summer and fall months with a well-balanced, complete fertilizer such as Schultz 10:5:10.
Around June 1, you may wish to transplant your poinsettias into larger pots, about 2 to 4 inches bigger than the original pot. Use a soil mix that incorporates a considerable amount of organic matter such as peat moss, leaf mold or redwood sawdust. You may also try planting them into a well-prepared garden bed rich in organic matter with good drainage. Your poinsettias will do best in a protected area, preferably along a south garden wall. Immediately after transplanting, be sure to water thoroughly with a double soaking.
A second cut back should be done around July 4th. Once again, cut stems back to about half their length.
The poinsettia is a photoperiodic plant, which means it begins to set buds and produce flowers as the winter nights become longer. The plants will naturally come into full bloom during November or December depending upon the flowering response time of the particular cultivar. This can be tricky to do outside of a controlled greenhouse environment, because any stray artificial light such as that from a street light or a household lamp could delay or halt the reflowering of the plants.
Starting October 1, the plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours each night. This can be accomplished by moving the plants to a dark room, or placing a large box over them. During this period, the plants require 6 to 8 hours of bright sunlight and night temperatures between 60 and 70ºF (15 and 21º C). If the temperature is too high or too low, the setting of the flower buds may be delayed or halted. The blooming process may also be delayed or disrupted by any stray light that may shine near the plants during the critical darkness period. This regimen must continue for approximately 8 to 10 weeks in order for the plants to develop a colorful display of blooms for the holiday season. Obviously, the reflowering process takes more than a little vigilance, perseverance and patience to be successful.
Since around 1919, an old wives' tale has circulated concerning the alleged poisonous nature of poinsettias. To alleviate the public's fear, the Society of American Florists and Ohio State University conducted a scientific investigation into the safety of the poinsettia plant. The Ohio State University research on the poinsettia plant effectively disproved the charge that the poinsettia is harmful to human and animal health. In fact, The Poisindex® Information Service, the primary information resource used by the majority of poison control centers, states that a 50 pound child would have to ingest over 500 bracts to surpass experimental doses. There was no toxicity at this level. The safety of poinsettias in the home has been clearly proven. Of course, the poinsettia, like all ornamental plants, is not intended for human and animal consumption.
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